I suggest that you go over the original CP class, as it will provide a lot of good information on coloured pencil application and some of your questions may be answered within the pages.
My apologies for the sporadic nature of the information. I was pressed for time and rushed a little in places. I will add more demos as we go.
While I figure out the technical problems, lets getting started on the process? Read through the information, then do the following:
1. Choose a good eye reference and draw it.
2. Use the dog nose reference and draw it
3. Use the fur reference and draw it.
Once you have completed these exercises, you will be ready to move on to your whole animal.
Any questions that you have I'll try to answer. Most of, enjoy your explorations into coloured pencil!
Right now I will post the text information in the tutorial and will add images later.
One of my passions in life is to drawing living things, animals being one of my favourite. I love creating the detail of the fur and the realism in the eyes that brings the animals to life.
This two week workshop will give you an opportunity to have some hands on practice at drawing an animal, either as a whole, or to practice individual parts to become familiar with the techniques.
I will not be teaching you how to draw in this workshop, but providing you with the techniques of drawing fur, eyes, noses, beaks, etc., using coloured pencil, so that you will have the ability to produce a piece here or to continue to draw animals into the future, improving as you go.
The key to lifelike animal drawings is to take your time, be patient and observe carefully. I promise if you do these three things, you will be happy with the final result.
Where to start?
The first thing that I do is create a line drawing. This is my map where I indicate highlights and shadow locations. I will do this drawing on sketch paper that I can make correction on, then when I am happy with the drawing, I will transfer it to a clean sheet of paper ?€“ in this case Bristol smooth.
Coloured pencil drawings or ?€˜paintings?€™ are created by building layers slowly with pigment. Each area in a drawing should have a minimum of three layers of colour with at least two different pigments. Some areas can have 15 or 20 layers to achieve the desired effect, but the majority have about six or seven layers.
By adding layers and different colours, you will achieve a rich depth to your drawing. A single colour will look flat.
Erasing colour
Coloured pencils are usually wax based, so using a regular eraser or kneaded eraser will do nothing but push the pigment further into the paper. You will need to actually lift the colour off the paper and this can be done several ways.
1. Poster putty. This is the slightly tacky stuff than you can knead and use to put posters on your wall. It works beautifully to remove coloured pencil too.
2. Sticky tape (sello tape, scotch tape and other brand names) works beautifully to remove areas of pigment too. Simply lay a piece of tape onto the area that you want to remove, add a little pressure with your finger and lift the tape. Use this method VERY cautiously, as it can tear your paper surface or worse. You can use an eraser shield to limit the area that you remove. These are easily available at most art or office supply stores.
3. Electric or battery operated erasers work well and can get your drawing back to white paper but need to be used VERY carefully otherwise you can end up with a hole in your drawing. Use a very light touch with these erasers and use sparingly in small areas.
There are a number of techniques for applying coloured pencil to paper, each can be an individual preference or useful in rendering a specific texture or surface.
?€? Scumbling: This technique applies pencil strokes with a tight scribbly motion (see Brenda?€™s ?€˜squirkling?€™. Use a sharp pencil and light pressure.
?€? Angled parallel hatching: This is a very common stroke in all drawing, whether graphite, pen and ink or coloured pencil.
?€? Vertical parallel hatching: You will have more overlap in your strokes with this technique, but these are evened out in subsequent layers.
?€? Crosshatching: Hatch marks going one direction are overlaid with hatch marks going another direction. (see Lesson here)
?€? Circulism: This is very similar to scumbling but a gentler approach which lays down a very smooth surface of even colour. It is not a quick technique however, so be prepared to go slow to achieve results.
?€? Impressing: Using an empty pen, knitting needle or the dull end of a darning needle, make strokes on your paper. When covered with coloured pencil, the impressed lines will stand out as the white of the paper. This is the standard technique for creating whiskers on animals, loose hairs or veins on leaves.
?€? Burnishing: This is a name for using so much hard pressure and so many layers that the tooth of the paper is completely filled and no white of the paper shows through. This can be used in small areas such as metal or glass to achieve a shiny, rich surface, but use sparingly and not until you are sure that you are calling your drawing finished after burnishing as you will not be able to apply additional layers of colour once you have burnished an area.
EYES
I nearly always start animal (or human) portraits with the eyes. If I can capture the look and values then I will continue with the drawing. Without them being successful, I rarely will spend additional time on the piece.
Start off with a light wash of your palest value. This should be done with very light pressure and should have even coverage. You should not be able to see any pencil lines. Remember to leave the catchlights in the eye as the white of the paper.
This cat has green/gold eyes so my palette for building up the colour would be pale green, yellow ochre, mid green, mineral orange, aqua and blue.
Use your reference to carefully study the subtle changes of light and value in the eyeball itself. Remember that eyes are spheres and therefore shadow tends to be on the edges depending on the direction of the light. Also the upper lid may cast a shadow onto the eye itself.
Even if the image on the left isn?€™t coloured pencil, its a good demonstration of the construction of drawing an eye and the basic start of laying down fur.
These are my working notes where I test out my palette for colour choices, strokes, and notes for layering. Try out your colours on a piece of scrap paper before you try them on your original drawing. It can save a lot of tears. Your working notes are also very useful references for the future when you are drawing similar subjects.
NOSES
Despite the different breeds of dogs or cats, nose structure remains pretty much the same. Colouring will vary depending on the breed of animal and some will have more texture than others on the ?€˜leather?€™. The more heavily textured, the more contrast you will need in dark values.
Most animal?€™s noses are either wet or dry. Wet particularly in the case of dogs and the trick to drawing them, is to create both the unique shape, texture and if present, moisture to make them believable.
Its useful to take the nose, whether dog or cat, as a separate study and examine it closely, trying to recreate the colour, shape and textures. The key is close observation and a good image to work from.
FUR
Animals are generally covered with hair ?€“ or fur. There is a dense undercoat that is quite fluffy and down-like and a coarser outer hair ?€“ the guard hair ?€“ that repels water and dirt. Each breed of animal has a different coat of varying length, either long or short fur or a combination.
Animal fur must be drawn in the direction that it grows. If you closely examine an animal?€™s fur, you will see how the direction follows the bone structure of the animal and helps form any patterning, as in this demonstration drawing of tiger fur.
To draw fur well, you need a clear close up image that shows the hairs and the values. This close up of a tabby's fur is a good way to practice drawing fur.
Try this exercise and see what you come up with. Look at the value changes that make up the pattern in the fur, the shadows between the hairs that define the lighter values and think about how to create them. This is what is known as negative drawing which means that you are drawing the shape around the hair, not the hair itself.
To draw this particular fur in coloured pencil, your range of colours will include sepia, umbers, yellow ochre, grey blue and cream. I used Prismacolor pencils for this, but if you aren?€™t using this brand, simply substitute approximate colours until you get the mix that you think is close.
I start with a light layer of cp in the base colour. This is the usually the lighter value in the case of dark fur or a neutral mid value for light coloured fur. This demo shows how the layers are slowly built using short strokes that indicate hair. I begin with an even layer as a base for the lightest colour of the fur, then start building the strokes, adding darker colours as I go and overlapping dark into light.
This is a slow process and you will achieve good results if you are patient and continue the layers. It will look odd at first, but then will start to come together. The more layers you use, the better the fur will look. A sharp pencil tip is vital to get the effect of fur. Don't be afraid to sharpen your pencil!
You can also use global shading to create an animal drawing. This will not give you the detail that the previous method does, but simply creates areas of light and dark to make up the form of the animal. This is good for animals that are further away or short haired . It is also used to make parts of the animal that recede when you want to bring attention to the face of the animal.
Whiskers
Creating white whiskers in animals takes a little planning. There are a couple of ways to do this so that the whiskers look natural. The first, which I prefer, is to use the indenting method. This involves placing a piece of tracing paper over your drawing, then using a blunt knitting needle or the end of an empty ballpoint pen, draw the lines that represent the whiskers, pressing firmly enough to leave indentations in your drawing.
When you use your coloured pencils to draw, the lines will remain white and not be affected by the colour. Just be careful to go back and forth horizontally, not vertically, in case your pencil slips into the groove and leaves some pigment there.
The second method of drawing whiskers is to put them in after yoru drawing is complete, using gouche. Gouche is an opaque paint that you can thin and apply with a fine liner brush to add white whiskers.
Despite the different breeds of dogs or cats, nose structure remains pretty much the same. Colouring will vary depending on the breed of animal and some will have more texture than others on the ?€˜leather?€™. The more heavily textured, the more contrast you will need in dark values.
Most animal?€™s noses are either wet or dry. Wet particularly in the case of dogs and the trick to drawing them, is to create both the unique shape, texture and if present, moisture to make them believable.
Its useful to take the nose, whether dog or cat, as a separate study and examine it closely, trying to recreate the colour, shape and textures. The key is close observation and a good image to work from.
GETTING STARTED
Start with some studies of the parts of animals that make up the whole. Eyes, noses and fur. Understand the techniques and how to create the colours and textures that you?€™ll need to convincingly recreate the photo of the animal that you wish to draw.
?€? Build your layers slowly using a light touch.
?€? Observe carefully and draw what you see, not what you believe should be there.
?€? Use a piece of scrap paper to test out colour swatches and determine the palette that you?€™ll use and to test techniques.
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